Issue 12  •  Spring 2013

Smoke Gets in Your Eye: How To Attain That Perfect Smokey Eye

Written by Veronica Liljeblad
Whenever I do makeup for a shoot, seven times out of ten I always get asked to do a smokey eye. What is it with smokey eyes that has made them withstand the test of time? The look dates back to ancient times with Cleopatra being the first woman to rock the blackened lid. With the liberation of women beginning to take flight in the 1920s the makeup looks also got more pronounced with rounded, smokey eye makeup and small red lips. Sophia Loren led the brigade of famous women who made the smokey eye and nude lip a staple in the 1960s. Since then it has stayed in fashion in different varieties, blue and brown in the '70s, bright in the '80s, understated and grungy in the '90s and in present day, it seems to come back every season in a new color.
Whenever I do makeup for a shoot, seven times out of ten I always get asked to do a smokey eye. What is it with smokey eyes that has made them withstand the test of time? The look dates back to ancient times with Cleopatra being the first woman to rock the blackened lid. With the liberation of women beginning to take flight in the 1920s the makeup looks also got more pronounced with rounded, smokey eye makeup and small red lips. Sophia Loren led the brigade of famous women who made the smokey eye and nude lip a staple in the 1960s. Since then it has stayed in fashion in different varieties, blue and brown in the '70s, bright in the '80s, understated and grungy in the '90s and in present day, it seems to come back every season in a new color. How do you do a smokey eye you ask? We have step-by-step instructions for you to make it as easy as one, two, three (well four actually).
 
 Eye Color  Choose  Avoid
 Blue  brown, gold, black, gray, taupe  baby blue, lilac, purple
 Hazel 
 champagne, deep blue, charcoal
 brown, green
 Green
 purple, lilac, plum, dark brown  light green, black
 Brown  blue, champagne, navy, khaki  pastel colors
 
PREPARE YOUR FACE
If you want a strong eye the rest of your face should be as clean looking as possible. Moisturize face and eye area, apply foundation and powder (don’t forget to apply it to your eyelids as well, this helps the eye shadow to adhere and makes it last).
 
LINE YOUR EYES
Line your eyes using a liquid or soft liner. A liquid liner works best if you want a really dark and intense result and the softer pencil is great for a subtle look or if you are a beginner. You can line both the upper and the lower lash line or just the upper, depending on the occasion and how dramatic you want it to look. Make sure to blend the liner into the bottom lashes, and use a soft liner—liquid liner doesn’t work under the eyes. For a more intense look, line the inside of your eyes, as well.

APPLY EYE SHADOW
Apply your eye shadow of choice (see chart for suggestions) with a dome shaped brush. If you prefer you can use your fingertips, as well. Start at the lash line and with a sweeping motion work your way to the crease. You can do it in different shapes; for example, a C-shape in the corner of the eye for a more defined look. Use a light colored shadow to blend the edges; you can apply the lighter color all the way to the eyebrow and around the eye to highlight.
 
THE FINISHING TOUCH
Mascara, mascara, mascara. Apply your favorite mascara to finish off the look. Do multiple coats for nighttime or just one or two coats for daytime. Separate the lashes after the mascara dries with a disposable mascara wand or a brow comb (you can find them in any Ricky’s or Sally Beauty).

GOOD LUCK!

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